Sunday, January 11, 2009

How to fix your Whirlpool Duet F11 Problem

Follow all of the instructions above.

Click here for some Flickr photos of the repair (done by someone other than me).

Click here if you need to buy a replacement Whirlpool MCU.

OR click here.

Not sure what the differences are. Apparently with your p/n and your s/n the folks who work at the links provided above ought to be able to figure out what you need.

26 comments:

  1. Thank you for your detailed instructions. For less than 30 bucks I fixed it and so far (fingers crossed) no error codes!

    SteveC

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks to you and thenotoriousflavio I fixed my f-11 and DL faults after following your instructions. This explains why the boards were having to be replaced. This is very easy to do with directions, just be sure to do it safetly. I really do like my Kenmore he4t, for a family of 5 it is a good choice ....without f-11 and dl's.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Completed the repair and got a "C:00" code on the self-test. First load went off without a hitch. Second load sounded the dreaded beep: F11. Hit reset and machine completed load fine. So much better than before, but still that one error. Is it possible I didn't solder a single connection correctly?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Did you solder both sides?

    To me it sounds like maybe there's a contact that's still not making a connection.

    Since I did thre repair (many months now), not a single F11.

    I'd pull it out and make sure you didn't miss somewhere by accident.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thank you very much for sharing your information. It worked perfectly. We have not had a single issue since. You saved us a lot of money. We didn't buy any new parts, just took your advice! Wonderful!!! Thank you, thank you!!!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thank you so much for your helpful info! I was able to fix my error code (f-11) for under $20!! works great so far & I can do my laundry again! :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thanks for the care and attention put into your instructions. I was able to follow the detailed steps successfully, and so far so good!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Thank you so much for your helpful info! My wife found your site and printed out the detailed instrustions for me. I was able to fix our error code (F-11) for under $20 as you suggested, works great so far. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  9. I hope my question doesn't sound too stupid but before I attempt it, I want to know if the added solder on the relays doesn't make it hard to put all the plugs back in. Why does it matter what kind of solder I use?

    ReplyDelete
  10. Not a stupid question.

    Definitely you don't want a huge thick layer as you won't be able to fit it back into the holder thingie.

    I don't know that the type of solder matters so much, but how much you put on does.

    ReplyDelete
  11. This fixed my issues. I too have never done any soldering before. I've been dealing with the F11 for months, then I finally got on Google and found your site. I went out and bought the needed supplies, and I just got through my first load with no F11 errors. Thanks for your instructions and saving me a ton of money.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thanks so much to everyone who has posted / shared their experiences with this error!

    Originally I was getting DL errors and found that my door lock assembly was bad so I ordered a new assembly. While the machine was apart I took a look at the relays and found one of the white relays (the one that I think locks / unlocks the door) was very corroded so I swapped it with the white relay next to it. I re-soldered all of the contacts for all 5 relays (2 white, 3 black) and re-tinned all of the PCD edge contacts.

    Now the machine is back together and sitting in my garage and I can't get it to pass the self test. The door locks and I get a C1 on the display, then it sounds like the solenoids for the water valves are trying to open for about 10 seconds, then I get the F11. Does anyone know if you need to connect the washer back up to running water to run the test cycle? I don't want to haul the thing back into the house if I haven't fixed the problem yet :)

    ReplyDelete
  13. Thank you for your site. I had f11 code, load stopped before final spin. Took off lid and started load, I WAS SPRAYED WITH WATER! Water from the supply was spraying on the control board, then the beep started. I used a towel to prevent more water from spraying the connections, and the load finished perfectly! Now I just need to fix that little leak at the hose connection. Maybe just tighten? New part?

    ReplyDelete
  14. For those who feel uncomfortable performing this repair, there is another alternative.
    First, allow me to explain that we had been intermittently getting the dreaded F11 code for some time. We had to play around with the buttons trying to coax our washer into action. Oftimes we'd give up & let it sit. That seemed to help; whether the board cooled off or it decided to stop teasing us - we've no idea.
    I got fed up & started researching. Like most, I was amazed at Bing's listed links. Confusing? That's an understatement. I felt I was capable of this type of repair...but if I messed it up I'd be out at least a couple hundred bucks!
    Surfing led me to Circuit Board Medics whose site said they had a 24 hour turnaround & the cost was nominal. The skeptic (and, I must admit, my manly pride) in me rose to the fore and said this was too good to be true. Repair the board for less than $100.00? Not a chance.
    Suffice it to say that after several more F11's and some creative language combinations, I threw caution to the wind. After all, what was $80.00 compared to the anguish of the proverbial "I told you so." hanging over my head?
    I watched their video, pulled the module, packed it as suggested, and sent it off on a Monday with the expectation of at least a couple weeks before the board came back performing the same routine.
    Much to my surprise, the board returned on the Friday of the same week! Still suffering from a major dose of skepticism, I reassembled the washer, crossing my fingers for luck, and threw in a load of laundry.
    To sum it up: the washer has been nothing but a gem of performance. Nary a code of any sort. No hesitation. I can even stop it mid-cycle and open the door to add something if need be...something I could never do before.
    I give Circuit Board Medics my highest recommendation. If you're experiencing the F11 or other codes, they can eliminate your woes with their straightforward repair, which is essentially the same as this blog/post/site details. I don't want to take away from what this brave gentleman recommends - if you've an ounce of know how, go ahead & follow his instructions.
    If reluctant, afraid, and/or downright petrified at the prospect of repairing it yourself, try the method I suggest.
    Kudos to the gentleman who came up with this fix because it works! I applaud a person with this much confidence and tech-knowledge!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Whirpool Duet started displaying F11 about 1 minute after attempt to start a load. It locked the door, started filling with water, unlocked the door and then locked it again before displaying F11. It did the same thing when I set the control to drain and spin. Any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
  16. Thank you so much for your instructions. Although, I originally was going to tint the edge connector contacts with solder as you suggested, I couldn't find any silver solder at Frys (plus, the customer support is so bad),I decided to just clean them for now. I used some emery paper with a minimum amount to pressure to ease the oxidation off the metal. Then I used DeoxIT connector cleaner, enhancer and protector on all the contacts ($24). I'm six loads in, and everything is working great (knock on wood). Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  17. I removed my board and gently cleaned all of the connector edge pads with fine sand paper, just light enough to remove any surface oxidation. I then took very thin strips of the paper and threaded it between the exposed contacts of the two relays to clean the oxidation and pits off of them. The washer has worked flawless ever since.

    ReplyDelete
  18. I was relived to find this post. Received this washer as a gift, knowing it had a "..slight problem..". Well Sears wanted $125 for a "diagnosis", plus parts. I've had the washer in place for two years working around the problem, and found this thread (thankfully).

    However, as noted above by kdmo811, I am going to take it one step further and only "Disconnect, then reconnect" the harnesses from the box and try that first, see if it makes a difference or not. After all, disconnecting and reconnecting was done by all who attempted the solder fix as well, right?

    ReplyDelete
  19. Another f11 / dl code nightmare duet user. That is till now. i found this blog, read everything and talked to a friend who works on small electronics, showed him the blog and went from there. The new relays were installed, all of the solder points were touched up (18 broken ones fixed). I reinstalled the board and all seems good. Knock on wood. Thanks for taking your time to give us this info.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I am having this miserable f-11 error as did everybody else who has posted here, but I am not able to see or find the "instructions" for the fix. Would someone be kind enough, to post the actual link to help me solve this problem, thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Change everything possible. Harness, door lock mech, motor, mcu, had ccu worked on 2 times, last time it was completely rebuilt, still F11

    ReplyDelete
  22. Thank you!! I was headed out on a business trip and my wife was facing a full week of no washer available for a family of 5 - not good. Took me only about an hour and worked like a charm just soldering the contacts before I left. Great guide!

    ReplyDelete
  23. For years my Kenmore 4T F11 error problem was solved by putting contact grease on the MS2 connector at the Motor Control Unit (MCU) located at the bottom left front of the washer. Remove 3 screws from the lower front panel under the front door, remove panel and on the left near the motor is a white plastic connector box. Open the box and you will see two pinkish rather large diameter wires, compare to the other wires, that lead to a large connector relative to the other connectors. It is this connector the seems to vibrate enough during the high speed spin cycle to cause intermittent contact. Remove this connector, apply contact grease, and reinstall. This has worked for me for years until recently. I think as the machine ages it vibrates more causing the intermittent contact to again occur at this connector. The solution that worked for me in this case was to put a piece of stiff foam inside the connector box and against the two pinkish wires leading to the MS2 connector. Closing the connector box with the foam inside must apply enough pressure to the connector's 2 wires to eliminate connector movement and this eliminates the intermittent connection.

    ReplyDelete
  24. For years my Kenmore 4T F11 error problem was solved by putting contact grease on the MS2 connector at the Motor Control Unit (MCU) located at the bottom left front of the washer. Remove 3 screws from the lower front panel under the front door, remove panel and on the left near the motor is a white plastic connector box. Open the box and you will see two pinkish rather large diameter wires, compare to the other wires, that lead to a large connector relative to the other connectors. It is this connector the seems to vibrate enough during the high speed spin cycle to cause intermittent contact. Remove this connector, apply contact grease, and reinstall. This has worked for me for years until recently. I think as the machine ages it vibrates more causing the intermittent contact to again occur at this connector. The solution that worked for me in this case was to put a piece of stiff foam inside the connector box and against the two pinkish wires leading to the MS2 connector. Closing the connector box with the foam inside must apply enough pressure to the connector's 2 wires to eliminate connector movement and this eliminates the intermittent connection.

    ReplyDelete
  25. Hello, I have a Whirlpool Duet model washing ghw9400pl4 the error occurs f11, I tried all options but I checked and saw that they're mcu resistant flue are so burned that I can not see values.
    if anyone could help me I would be very grateful values
    MCU model is aa22340 and resistances are these r2sp, r6sp and r3sp.

    ReplyDelete
  26. I had a slightly modified problem to the others listed here. I'd get an F 11 at the beginning of the cycle right as the motor should have started turning. Previous to this we had a seriously imbalanced wash load that had moved the washer about three feet across the floor. The imbalanced load caused the front dampener (molded concrete piece) to rub the tray on the inside left front of the washer. This caused a little leak. The walking washer also broke loose the MCU so it was sitting with the circuit board facing a little upward. A few drops of water landed on the MCU. The water caused a short at the bottom of the circuit board. When the communication signal wires connect to the motor board the signals go through two 4 pin chips right next to the communication connector. The water had shorted one or both of these - you could see some electrolytic corrosion and a small burn mark. These two chips are opto-couplers designed to protect the CCU if the MCU self destructs by isolating the the communications signals. I replaced both opto-couplers (they're A817, or FOD817 devices) and it fired right up. For people that have replaced everything and still get errors I know of two broad reasons for this: the components you're replacing are killing each other and you are stuck in a cycle of chasing the problem (less likely); The other potential cause (and this comes from 25 years of suffering over problems like this) is wires and connectors!!! (most likely). You cannot take for granted any wire or connector unless you have inspected it and checked it for connectivity - I can't state this enough. Problems will be invisible or obscured - you'll see the wire go into a connector, but what you really see is the insulation go into the connector, the metal wire will be disconnected inside.
    -Jim

    ReplyDelete